Understanding the Weaving Sett

Harrisville Designs Shetland Yarn being “sett” at 12epi in the reed. (Source: Samantha Gehrmann) In weaving, the term "sett" refers to the number of warp threads per inch, or per centimetre, in a woven fabric. It determines the density of the warp threads and significantly influences the final appearance, texture, and strength of the woven material. Sett plays a crucial role in achieving the desired weave structure and fabric characteristics. Variations in sett allow weavers to create different effects, from airy and open fabrics to dense and tightly woven textiles. Adjusting the sett requires careful consideration and experimentation to achieve the desired outcome in weaving projects. Sett is commonly expressed as "epi" (ends per inch) or "dpi" (dents per inch), both of which denote the number of warp threads within a single horizontal inch. In this guide, we will explore methods for determining the sett of the yarns in your stash and share the typical setts for weaving yarns from Thread Collective's vast collection. How Do you Determine the Correct Sett? Every warp and weft yarn combination is different, and it might take some time to get a sense of what sett each new piece should be woven at when you're beginning your weaving journey. There are some basic calculations that can help you to find the approximate sett to use for your desired warp to begin your sampling. A collection of Maurice Brassard yarns (Source: Thread Collective) Before you can use these calculations, you first need to know the wraps per inch (WPI) of your yarn. To find the WPI of yarn, you need a ruler or a WPI tool. First, secure the end of the yarn. Then, wrap the yarn snugly (not too tight or loose, as you don't want to distort the yarn) and evenly around the ruler or the WPI tool for one inch, making sure there are no gaps or overlaps between the wraps. Count the number of wraps that fit within the inch. Now that you know your WPI, you can follow these basic formulas to find the best starting point for sampling to determine the exact setting you'd prefer. To make a balanced plain weave, a good starting point would be a sett equal to half of your WPI or EPI = WPI x 0.5. For a twill weave, you need the sett to be a little closer (depending on the end result you seek), and so a sett equal to 2/3 of your WPI is an ideal place to start, or EPI = WPI x 0.67. Recommended Setts for Various Yarns To allow you to get started on your project more quickly and confidently, we've collated recommended setts for various yarns we stock below. Note that these setts are not necessarily the right setts for your project. They are suggested setts. These serve as a starting point for adjustments based on your fabric's intended use, as well as the combination of yarns in the warp and weft. They offer a good initial guideline for sampling, but your final sett may differ. Keep in mind that these recommendations assume the same weft and warp yarns, and that picks per inch (PPI) are equal to ends per inch (EPI). When a range is provided, the lower end will result in a more open or lace-like weave, while the higher end will produce a denser fabric. Plant Based Yarns Warp Material Approximate Yards Per Pound (YPP) Suggested EPI Tabby/Plain weave Suggested EPI Twill Cotton Weaving Yarn (Ne 8/2) - Maurice Brassard Mercerised Cotton (perle) - Maurice Brassard Cottolin - Venne Organic Cottolin 3360 with slight variation between brands 16-20 18-24 Cotton weaving yarn 16/2 - Maurice Brassard - Venne Organic 6700 20-24 28-36 Organic linen weaving yarn 16/2 2700 22-26 28-32 Cotton Weaving Yarn 8/4 1680 10-12 12-16 Cotton weaving mop yarn 8/16 420 5-8 10-12 Cotton weaving yarn 8/8 840 8 10-12 Australian long staple lace weaving yarn 10/2 4095 20-24 24-28 Cotton 100% Australian Cotton - DK (10 Ply) | Full Circle Fibres 985 7 9-10 Cotton Slub Maurice Brassard 3750 12-18 16-22 Maurice Brassard Cotton Boucle 1500 12 18-20 Maurice Brassard 8/2 Tencel 3360 16-24 20-30 Ne 8/2 Hemp Weaving Yarn - Maurice Brassard Organic - Maurice Brassard Organic Cotton/Hemp 3360 16-20 20-24 Maurice Brassard 8/2 Bamboo 3360 15-22 20-28 Maurice Brassard 16/2 Bamboo 6720 24 30 Maurice Brassard 70% Bamboo/30% Cotton Ne 8/2 3360 16-20 18-24 Maurice Brassard 70% Bamboo / 30% Cotton Ne 16/2 6720 20-24 28-36 Silk / Bamboo Nm 6/3 Swiss Mountain Silk 985 6-12 10-15 Silk / Bamboo Nm 16/2 Swiss Mountain Silk 3970 18-24 22-26 70% Mulberry Silk/30% Seacell Nm 1984 12 16 70% Mulberry Silk/30% Seacell Nm16/2 3968 18-24 22-26 65% Mulberry Silk /35% Linen Nm 16/2 | Swiss Mountain Silk 3970 18-24 22-26 Animal Fibre Yarns Warp Material Approximate Yards Per Pound (YPP) Suggested EPI Tabby/Plain weave Suggested EPI Twill 65% Mulberry Silk/35%Cashmere Nm 20/2 4960 24-26 26-30 Venne Organic Merino Wool Nm 28/2 6945 24-32 26-36 Swiss Mountain Mulberry Silk / Royal Alpaca Nm 15/2 3720 18-24 22-28 Silk / Cashmere Nm 12/3 | Swiss Mountain Silk 1984 12-16 15-18 Silk Mulberry Spun Silk Nm 8/2 | Swiss Mountain Silk 1980 14 16-18 Silk Mulberry Spun Silk Nm 12/2 | Swiss Mountain Silk 2980 15-16 20-24 65% Mulberry Silk / 35% Baby Camel Nm 16/2 Swiss Mountain Silk 3970 18-24 22-26 65% Mulberry Silk / 35% Baby Camel Nm 12/3 Swiss Mountain Silk 1984 12-16 15-18 Swiss Mountain Mulberry Spun Silk Nm 20/2 4960 20-24 28-32 Silk Mulberry Spun Silk Nm 30/2 | Swiss Mountain Silk 7441 32-36 40-45 Silk Noil by Maurice Brassard Nm 20/2 4500 22-26 26-30 Silk Slub 'Flammé' Spun Silk Nm 10/1 | Swiss Mountain Silk 4960 20-24 28-32 Silk / Wool Nm 5/2 | Swiss Mountain Silk 1240 12 15 Silk 100% Mulberry Spun Silk (Nm 5/2) | Swiss Mountain Silk 1240 12 15 After gaining experience with a specific yarn, determining the appropriate sett for a new project becomes relatively straightforward. If you're aiming for a stronger or stiffer fabric than what you've previously created, you should increase the sett. Conversely, if you desire a drapier, gauzier fabric, you should open up or decrease the sett. When adjusting your tie-up to one that includes more or longer floats, it's advisable to increase your sett to maintain fabric stability. On the other hand, if you switch to a weave structure with more interlacements, decreasing the sett will help to accommodate the additional crossings of warp and weft threads. Understanding these adjustments allows you to fine-tune your weaving projects to achieve the desired texture and functionality. Need Further Assistance? Sometimes, despite our best efforts, achieving the desired result can be challenging. If you're having difficulty calculating the correct sett or need guidance in troubleshooting your samples to attain the perfect fabric, don't hesitate to reach out. Our team at Thread Collective is always ready and happy to assist you. Whether it's offering advice, answering questions, or providing additional resources, we're here to help you achieve your weaving goals. Feel free to contact us via hello@threadcollective.com.au for personalised support and solutions. You may also view our Master Yarn Chart for more information on all the yarns offered at Thread Collective.

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