Understanding the Weaving Sett

In weaving, the term "sett" refers to the number of warp threads per inch, or per centimetre, in a woven fabric. It determines the density of the warp threads and significantly influences the final appearance, texture, and strength of the woven material.

Sett plays a crucial role in achieving the desired weave structure and fabric characteristics. Variations in sett allow weavers to create different effects, from airy and open fabrics to dense and tightly woven textiles. Adjusting the sett requires careful consideration and experimentation to achieve the desired outcome in weaving projects.

Sett is commonly expressed as "epi" (ends per inch) or "dpi" (dents per inch), both of which denote the number of warp threads within a single horizontal inch. In this guide, we will explore methods for determining the sett of the yarns in your stash and share the typical setts for weaving yarns from Thread Collective's vast collection.

How Do you Determine the Correct Sett?

Every warp and weft yarn combination is different, and it might take some time to get a sense of what sett each new piece should be woven at when you're beginning your weaving journey. There are some basic calculations that can help you to find the approximate sett to use for your desired warp to begin your sampling.

Before you can use these calculations, you first need to know the wraps per inch (WPI) of your yarn. To find the WPI of yarn, you need a ruler or a WPI tool. First, secure the end of the yarn. Then, wrap the yarn snugly (not too tight or loose, as you don't want to distort the yarn) and evenly around the ruler or the WPI tool for one inch, making sure there are no gaps or overlaps between the wraps. Count the number of wraps that fit within the inch.

Now that you know your WPI, you can follow these basic formulas to find the best starting point for sampling to determine the exact setting you'd prefer. To make a balanced plain weave, a good starting point would be a sett equal to half of your WPI or EPI = WPI x 0.5. For a twill weave, you need the sett to be a little closer (depending on the end result you seek), and so a sett equal to 2/3 of your WPI is an ideal place to start, or EPI = WPI x 0.67.

Recommended Setts for Various Yarns

To allow you to get started on your project more quickly and confidently, we've collated recommended setts for various yarns we stock below. Note that these setts are not necessarily the right setts for your project. They are suggested setts. These serve as a starting point for adjustments based on your fabric's intended use, as well as the combination of yarns in the warp and weft. They offer a good initial guideline for sampling, but your final sett may differ. Keep in mind that these recommendations assume the same weft and warp yarns, and that picks per inch (PPI) are equal to ends per inch (EPI). When a range is provided, the lower end will result in a more open or lace-like weave, while the higher end will produce a denser fabric.

Plant Based Yarns

Animal Fibre Yarns

After gaining experience with a specific yarn, determining the appropriate sett for a new project becomes relatively straightforward. If you're aiming for a stronger or stiffer fabric than what you've previously created, you should increase the sett. Conversely, if you desire a drapier, gauzier fabric, you should open up or decrease the sett.

When adjusting your tie-up to one that includes more or longer floats, it's advisable to increase your sett to maintain fabric stability. On the other hand, if you switch to a weave structure with more interlacements, decreasing the sett will help to accommodate the additional crossings of warp and weft threads. Understanding these adjustments allows you to fine-tune your weaving projects to achieve the desired texture and functionality.

Need Further Assistance?

Sometimes, despite our best efforts, achieving the desired result can be challenging. If you're having difficulty calculating the correct sett or need guidance in troubleshooting your samples to attain the perfect fabric, don't hesitate to reach out. Our team at Thread Collective is always ready and happy to assist you. Whether it's offering advice, answering questions, or providing additional resources, we're here to help you achieve your weaving goals. Feel free to contact us via hello@threadcollective.com.au for personalised support and solutions.

You may also view our Master Yarn Chart for more information on all the yarns offered at Thread Collective.