Worsted Spinning: A Beginner's Guide

Spinning is an ancient craft that allows individuals to create unique and personalised yarns for knitting, weaving, or other fibre arts. Among the various techniques of hand spinning, worsted spinning stands out for its ability to produce smooth, durable, and lustrous yarns suitable for a wide range of projects. If you're a beginner looking to delve into the world of hand spinning, understanding the basics of worsted spinning is a great place to start.

Understanding Worsted Spinning

Worsted yarn, with its distinctive smoothness and durability, is a product of meticulous preparation and specialised spinning technique. Unlike its woollen counterpart, worsted yarn demands the careful aligning of its fibres during preparation, typically processed with combs, to keep fibres parallel and remove the shorter ones. This is essential for creating the hard-wearing qualities that make worsted yarn ideal for textiles like tailored garments, rugs, and blankets, which are subject to vigorous wear and tear.

What is Worsted Spinning?

Worsted spinning is a nuanced art form within hand spinning, where the spinner manipulates long staple fibres that have been prepared in parallel alignment through combing. During this process, the spinner drafts the fibres—carefully drawing them out to attenuate—and then immediately introduces a twist using deft finger movements, traditionally with the thumb and forefinger. This action binds the fibres together into a consistent, strong yarn.

In practice, worsted spinning involves a deliberate method where the fibre is first carefully drafted and then smoothed using the spinner's thumb and forefinger while twist, generated by the wheel or spindle is allowed in. This crafting process flattens loose fibres, reinforcing the yarn's integrity and resulting in an enviable stitch definition that enthuses patterned knitting. Its defining characteristics of smoothness, lustre, and durability categorise worsted yarn as a staple for garments that demand robustness, such as those that will act as warp in weaving due to their strength.

The result of worsted spinning is a smooth, lustrous yarn renowned for its ability to withstand wear. With its high tensile strength, worsted yarn is particularly well-suited for creating items that are not just visually appealing with a clear stitch definition but also physically resilient, which is why it's preferred for hard-wearing textile applications.

Worsted vs. Woollen Yarns: What's the Difference?

The difference between worsted and woollen yarns primarily comes down to how the fibres are prepared and the spinning methods used. Worsted yarns are known for their smoothness and strength, achieved by combing fleece with specialty Dutch or English combs. This combing process aligns the fibres parallel to one another, removing shorter staples and preparing them for short draw spinning, a technique specific to worsted yarn production.

On the other hand, woollen yarns embrace their fluffy nature thanks to the carding process that creates rolag—a roll of wool with fibres arranged randomly. This preparation sets the stage for long draw spinning, where the twist enters the fibres freely, capturing air and resulting in light, snug, and stretchy yarns.

Another distinct difference between the two yarns is where the twist is allowed to enter during the spinning process. In woollen yarn, the twist enters the fibre supply, while in worsted yarn, the twist is deliberately prevented from entering the drafting zone and fibre supply.

Finally, the key difference lies in the structure of the final yarns: Worsted-spun yarns are more dense, with parallel fibres and a smooth surface that reduces halo, while woollen-spun yarns feature a blend of fibre directions, giving them a softer, fuzzier look and excellent insulation properties.

We will have a deeper discussion on woollen spinning in our next blog post.

Getting Started on Worsted Hand Spinning

In the world of traditional textile crafts, hand spinning offers a rich connection to our heritage and rewarding creative pursuits. For newcomers venturing into this ancient art, grasping the basics of spinning, particularly woollen-spinning and worsted-spinning, is key. These techniques form the backbone of hand spinning and are essential to learning.

Beginner hand spinning classes generally focus on teaching fundamental skills, which include worsted drafting (short forward or backward draw) and plying techniques. Participants gain insights into selecting suitable fibres for their projects, opening up a world of crafting possibilities. It's important to note that terms like "worsted" and "woollen" in hand spinning refer to specific spinning methods, not yarn weight or fibre type.

A crucial step in hand spinning is preparing the fibres before spinning. Proper alignment allows spinners to create different yarn types, from semi-worsted to semi-woolen. This knowledge enables spinners to experiment with textures and characteristics, whether aiming for the smoothness of worsted-spun yarn or the cosy fluffiness of woollen-spun yarn. Understanding these distinctions is essential for honing spinning techniques and achieving desired outcomes.

Read on to learn more about fibre preparation, the tools required and the art of worsted spinning.

Materials and Tools for Worsted Spinning

Getting started on worsted spinning requires gathering essential materials and tools to ensure a smooth and enjoyable spinning experience. Here's a detailed overview of what you'll need:

1. Fibre Selection: The first step is choosing the right fibre for worsted spinning. Opt for fibres like combed wool tops, cotton, silk, or blends that are suitable for this technique. Combed wool top, in particular, is processed to align the fibres parallel, making it perfect for creating smooth and sturdy worsted yarns. Consider the characteristics of each fibre, such as its texture, lustre, and suitability for your desired project. For beginners, we recommend starting with a fibre with a little more "tooth" so it isn't slippery. Corriedale makes for an excellent beginner’s fibre and remains a delight to spin for experienced spinners, too.
2. Spinning Wheel or Spindle: Decide whether you'll be using a spinning wheel (manual or electric spinner) or a spindle for your worsted spinning journey. Spinning wheels offer more options for control over speed and consistency. On the other hand, spindles provide portability and a slower pace, making them a great choice for beginners or spinners who prefer a more relaxed spinning experience. Choose the option that aligns best with your spinning goals and preferences.
3. Lazy Kate: A handy tool in the spinning arsenal, the lazy kate is used to hold multiple bobbins of spun yarn. This tool allows you to ply your yarns together if desired, creating stronger and more balanced yarns. Whether you're plying different colours for a variegated effect or adding texture to your yarn, the lazy kate streamlines the process and ensures neat and organized spinning sessions.
4. Niddy Noddy: Another essential tool for handspinners, the niddy noddy is used for skeining and measuring yarn. After spinning, you can wind your yarn onto the niddy noddy to create consistent hanks of yarn. This step is crucial for further processing, such as washing and setting the twist, or for storage and display of your handspun yarns. The niddy noddy helps maintain uniformity in your yarn skeins, making them ready for knitting, weaving, or other fibre arts projects.
5. Drive System: If you're using a spinning wheel, familiarise yourself with the mechanics of your wheel, whether it be Irish tension, Scotch tension or double drive system. These mechanisms control the speed and tension of the yarn as it is spun, allowing you to adjust and fine-tune your spinning process. Understanding how to utilise these systems effectively ensures smooth and consistent yarn production, enhancing the overall quality of your handspun yarns. You can read more about drive systems in our article "The Difference Between Single and Double Drive Wheels".

By gathering these essential materials and tools, you'll be well-equipped to embark on your worsted spinning journey with confidence and creativity. Experimenting with different fibres, mastering spinning techniques, and exploring the possibilities of handspun yarns will enrich your experience and open doors to endless crafting opportunities.

Choosing the Right Spinning Wheel for Worsted Spinning

In worsted spinning, selecting the right spinning wheel can significantly impact your spinning journey. A well-suited spinning wheel for worsted spinning should offer precise drafting control and twist management, ensuring that fibres align smoothly and yarns are spun without premature twisting.

Let's explore beginner-friendly spinning wheels from renowned brands like Ashford, Schacht, and Louet, each designed to cater to the needs of worsted spinners:

1. Ashford Traditional Spinning Wheel:

• Features: The Ashford Traditional Spinning Wheel is a classic choice for beginners, offering a robust and user-friendly design. It comes with a single treadle that provides a stable spinning experience. The wheel's tension adjustments allow for fine-tuning, ensuring consistent yarn production.
• Benefits: This spinning wheel is suitable for worsted spinning as it provides adequate control over drafting and twist. It's versatile enough to handle various fibre types and weights, making it ideal for experimenting with different worsted yarns.

2. Schacht Ladybug Spinning Wheel:

• Features: The Schacht Ladybug Spinning Wheel is renowned for its compact size and ergonomic design, making it an excellent choice for beginners. It features a double treadle system, offering enhanced comfort and rhythmic spinning.
• Benefits: For worsted spinning, the Ladybug's smooth operation and adjustable tension ensure precise drafting and consistent yarn production. Its lightweight yet sturdy construction makes it easy to transport, ideal for spinners who value portability.

3. Louet S10 Spinning Wheel:

• Features: The Louet S10 Spinning Wheel is a versatile wheel suitable for beginners and experienced spinners alike. It comes with a single-treadle or double-treadle option, providing spinners with ergonomic choices based on their preference.
• Benefits: The S10's range of ratios allows spinners to adjust twist insertion speed, making it well-suited for worsted spinning techniques. Its sturdy construction and smooth operation contribute to the production of uniform and high-quality worsted yarns.

When choosing a spinning wheel for worsted spinning, look for features such as fine-tuned tension adjustments, steady take-up, ergonomic design, and versatility in ratios. Some spinners find they prefer a single drive set up to a double drive set up for worsted spinning. Beginner-friendly spinning wheels from brands like Ashford, Schacht, and Louet offer these qualities, enabling spinners to create smooth and consistent worsted yarns with ease and precision.

How to Prepare Fibres for Worsted Spinning

True worsted spinning involves careful preparation of fibres to achieve straight and parallel alignment, resulting in a smooth and durable yarn. Note that you can make a "semi" yarn by using a woollen fibre preparation with a worsted style of the draft. Here's how to prepare fibres for worsted spinning:

1. Cleaning:

• Begin by cleaning the wool with a scour and hand-picking and other items to remove impurities.
• Dry thoroughly.

2. Combing for Alignment:

• Process the wool using combs.
• This may require multiple passes until all short bits and vegetable matter have been removed.

3. Move fibre to hackle or create "top" directly from combs:

• When fibre has been well combed, you can create your own combed top by pulling the combed fibre through a diz.
• Alternatively, you can draft directly from combs.

By following these steps and paying attention to detail when preparing fibres, you can achieve the distinctive smoothness and resilience characteristic of worsted-spun yarns. To learn more about fibre preparation, read our past article, Preparing Fibre for Spinning.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Worsted Spinning

Worsted spinning involves specific spinning techniques to create smooth, lustrous yarns. Here's a detailed guide to mastering worsted spinning:

1. Beginning the Worsted Spinning Process:

• For true worsted spinning, be sure to start with combed fibre so that fibres are in alignment. If you prefer to spin worsted draft with woollen fibres, you may wish to use roving, a batt or rolag.

2. Decide on draft length.

• A good rule of thumb for figuring out the length of your draft is to find the staple length of the fibre and draft approximately 50-70% of this length. You may find if you have a shorter draft, your yarn will be thicker and have noticeable lumps, and longer drafts may lead to the yarn drifting apart.

3. Start spinning:

• If you're using a wheel, be sure to set the tension so the take-up isn't too strong that the yarn is pulled forcibly from your hands but not so weak that it isn't drawn onto the bobbin. Choose a ratio that compliments your fibre and desired yarn thickness. Typically, a slow ratio is good for bulky yarns, a middle-range ratio for standard weights of yarn and a fast ratio for fine yarns. If using a spindle, ensure you have a leader attached or create one from your chosen fibre.
• Introduce some twist to your leader yarn and attached fibre source.

4. The Worsted Draft

• To draft the fibres, employ a short forward or short draw technique. This method involves using the thumb and forefinger of your hand to gently pull the fibres out to thin them. The goal is to maintain control and avoid premature twisting. Draft fibres to your predetermined draft length before sliding your leader finger and thumb along those fibres to allow twist in and simultaneously smooth them.
• Without allowing twist into the fibre supply, pinch your next few fibres to draft forward and repeat. Consistent actions are crucial during this process to create a yarn that is both smooth to the touch and visually appealing with lustrous fibres.
• Perform ply back tests to see whether you need to add or remove twist and make adjustments to ratio or treadling as required.

Hint: Where you draft your fibre from the fibre source creates a drafting triangle. Try to always select the fiber from the drafting triangle in the same spot i.e. how far down the triangle you start to draft for a more consistent spinning experience

5. Dealing with Breaks or Mistakes:

• Even experienced spinners encounter breaks or mistakes during spinning. In worsted spinning, if the twist enters the drafting zone too early or if your yarn breaks, adjustments can be made.
• Adjust the tension on your spinning wheel to control the twist. Yarn often breaks because it has too much twist, or it drifts apart if not enough twist is present. If the yarn breaks, rejoin it by overlapping the ends and drafting out a bit more fibre before allowing the twist to secure the join. Check the twist and remove any impurities that may have been missed during the initial fibre preparation to ensure uniformity in yarn quality.

6. Understanding Worsted vs Woolen Spinning:

• It's essential to understand the difference between worsted and woollen spinning techniques. Worsted spinning results in a smooth texture with well-defined stitches, making it suitable for detailed knitwear projects such as intricate patterns or cables. In contrast, the woollen spinning creates loftier and airier yarns, which are ideal for garments like cosy sweaters or blankets with a fluffy feel.

7. Finishing and Caring for Worsted-Spun Yarn:

• After spinning, worsted-spun yarns require careful finishing and care to maintain their quality. Fibres used in worsted spinning are typically long and arranged in parallel, creating a strong yarn with excellent stitch definition.
• Prepare fibres using tools like combs to ensure the length and arrangement are conducive to the final yarn's hardwearing nature. Post-spinning, optionally dye yarn in controlled baths for uniform colour and softness. Transform the yarn into a skein using a Niddy Noddy, which facilitates washing and setting the twist.

8. Skeining and Setting the Twist:

• Setting the twist is a crucial step in ensuring yarn stability. Soak the skeined yarn in warm water to set the twist evenly throughout the yarn. Gently squeeze out excess moisture without wringing, and hang the skein without weight to dry. Properly set twist maintains the integrity of the yarn and prevents it from untwisting during use. We suggest not blocking your yarn or using weight during the process as it may hide over or under twisted yarns, which can heavily impact the appearance and performance of a finished item.

9. Storing and Preserving Handspun Yarn:

• Proper storage is key to preserving the quality of handspun worsted yarn over time. Store dry yarn in a clean, dry place away from direct sunlight and strong odours. Protect your yarn from pests like moths by storing it in sealed containers or using natural repellents.

By following these step-by-step instructions and practising careful fibre preparation and spinning techniques, you can create high-quality worsted-spun yarns for your crafting projects.

Modern Applications of Worsted Handspinning

In today's ever-evolving textile industry, worsted spinning remains a key player. Known for its smoothness, sheen, and durability, worsted yarn continues to be a top choice for knitters seeking well-defined stitch patterns and enduring quality in their projects. However, contemporary spinners have also embraced variations within worsted spinning to cater to changing preferences and trends.

One such variation is semi-worsted spinning, where worsted spinning techniques are combined with a blend of fibre preparations. This blend results in yarns that maintain the smoothness of worsted yarn but with a slightly less defined appearance in the final knitted fabric. Skilled spinners proficient in semi-worsted techniques often use methods like combing or flicking to ensure optimal fibre alignment, contributing to the creation of exceptionally smooth and versatile yarns.

Today's spinners aren't confined to one spinning method; they draw inspiration from a range of techniques, including woollen and semi-woollen methods. By synthesising these traditions, spinners can customise yarns to meet specific functionalities or aesthetic preferences. For example, blending worsted techniques with elements of woollen spinning can produce yarns with added loftiness and warmth, perfect for snug winter garments or accessories.

The adoption of these diverse spinning techniques reflects a blend of respect for traditional craftsmanship and innovative adaptation to suit modern textile needs. Spinners aren't just preserving heritage practices; they're also pushing boundaries to create yarns that align with contemporary creative ambitions. This fusion of tradition and innovation underscores the dynamic nature of hand spinning, making it a vibrant and evolving art form in today's textile landscape.

Start Your Worsted Spinning Journey

Delving into the art of worsted spinning opens a world of creativity and craftsmanship for beginners. By mastering the techniques of fibre preparation, drafting, and spinning, aspiring spinners can create smooth, lustrous yarns with defined stitch patterns, perfect for a range of knitting projects. The journey from selecting fibres to setting the twist is a rewarding experience that not only connects us to traditional textile practices but also allows for innovative adaptations to suit modern textile needs. Embracing worsted spinning as a beginner sets the stage for a fulfilling and enriching journey in the vibrant world of hand spinning.