The Basics of Double Weaving

​Double weaving is one of those magical weaving techniques that can completely transform what you thought was possible on your loom. It's the method that allows you to create two layers of fabric at once, opening the door to double-width cloth, seamless tubes, pockets, and rich, reversible designs. For some, it's a gateway to larger, more ambitious projects; for others, it's an exploration into the hidden worlds that can live between the layers of cloth.

While it may sound advanced, double weaving is entirely approachable with the proper preparation and a willingness to explore. This guide will walk you through the fundamentals: what double weaving is, how to set up your loom, weave and manage multiple layers, read double weave drafts, and troubleshoot common challenges. By the end, you'll have the confidence to begin your double weave projects—whether they're practical, decorative, or a bit of both.

At Thread Collective, we're passionate about supporting your weaving journey with high-quality tools, beautiful yarns, and thoughtful resources. This is as much about the joy of the process as it is about the finished piece, so let's dive in and discover the possibilities of double weave.

What is Double Weaving?

At its heart, double weaving is the art of creating two layers of cloth at the same time on one loom. These layers can remain separate, be joined along one edge to make a piece of fabric twice as wide as your loom, or be connected in various creative ways to form tubes, pockets, or intricate reversible patterns.

For weavers who want to make wider cloth than their loom's weaving width, double weave is a game-changer. For those who love texture and structure, it opens up an exciting range of possibilities.

Understanding the Concept of Double Layers

Imagine weaving two scarves at once—one floating neatly above the other—but both are controlled on the same loom. This is the essence of double weaving. By threading two warps through the heddles in a specific order and using two separate wefts in alternating passes, you can control each layer independently.

You can choose to keep the layers entirely separate, join them at one or both selvedges, or interconnect them in patterns across the cloth. This structural versatility makes double weaving one of the most fascinating techniques to explore. For a deeper dive into the mechanics, Doubleweave by Jennifer Moore is an excellent resource.

Benefits and Applications of Double Weave

Double weave offers:

• Reversible designs with different patterns or colours on each side.
• Double-width cloth, allowing you to weave blankets, shawls, or large tablecloths on a smaller loom.
• Structural effects, such as tubes, pockets, or layers for warmth and texture.
• Creative freedom to experiment with colour, pattern, and form in new ways.

Essential Tools and Materials for Double Weaving

Achieving a smooth, balanced double weave depends heavily on the tools and materials you choose.

Choosing the Right Loom and Accessories

While you can experiment with double weave on a rigid heddle loom using two heddles (like the Ashford Rigid Heddle), the technique truly shines on multi-shaft looms with at least four shafts, such as the Schacht Baby Wolf. For those looking to expand their double weaving possibilities, consider these options:

• For intricate double-weave patterns and a large weaving width, the Louet Delta is an excellent choice.
• If portability is important without sacrificing precision, the Louet Jane 16 Shaft is ideal.
• To handle fine threads smoothly and efficiently, especially when working with two separate wefts, pair your loom with a Schacht 15 End Feed Shuttle.

Recommended Yarns for Double Weaving

Choosing the right yarn is essential for maintaining even tension and achieving clear separation between the two fabric layers:

• For luxurious, fine, and smooth fabrics, Organic Merino Venne 28/2 is an excellent choice, offering beautiful drape, softness, and excellent stitch definition.
• For warm, textured projects like blankets or scarves, Harrisville Designs Shetland Cones provide durability, body, and resilience.

How Double Weaving Works

In standard weaving, you work with one warp and one weft. In double weaving, you manage two warps and two wefts simultaneously, keeping them either separate or joined in specific places.

Layering Two Warps and Two Wefts

Each warp thread belongs to one of the two layers. Your treadling lifts the shafts to weave one layer while the other layer floats beneath, then alternates to weave the second layer. The two wefts are passed in turn—one for the top layer, one for the bottom.

Exploring Different Double Weave Structures

• Double-width fabric: Layers are joined on one selvedge so the cloth unfolds into a piece twice your loom's width.
• Tubular weaving: Both selvedges are joined, creating a hollow tube for bags, sleeves, or decorative objects.
• Colour-reversible patterns: Different colours on each layer create bold visual effects when swapped in the structure.
• Deflected Double Weave: interlacement of the two layers in a way that the colours and/or textures switch on the top and bottom, creating interesting visual effects and reversible designs

This technique uses blocks of colour or texture in each layer, which can be switched to the front or back to create patterns or designs.

Setting Up Your Loom for Double Weaving

A successful double weave starts long before you throw the first shuttle.

Warping for Two Layers

Accuracy in warping is crucial. Typically, you wind the warp for both layers together as a single unit. When threading, follow the specific alternating pattern dictated by your double weave draft. Maintaining consistent tension during beaming is essential, as uneven tension between the two layers is one of the most common challenges for beginners.

Weaving Double Cloth

Managing Separate Layers

When weaving, track which shuttle belongs to which layer; mixing them up can cause unintended joins or pattern shifts. Some weavers colour-code their shuttles or bobbins to make this easier.

Joining Layers for Double-Width Fabric

When weaving double-width fabric, one selvedge acts as the join between the two layers. You typically start weaving at the open selvedge, the side where the two layers remain separate and unconnected. The opposite edge, where the fold will form, is often called the “folded selvedge” or “connection point.” This setup allows the two layers to be woven independently before joining at the fold. The join is usually created by interchanging the edge warp threads from the top and bottom layers in the draft so they interlock securely.

Creating Tubes and Pockets

To create a tube, join both selvedges so the fabric forms a continuous cylinder. For a pocket, weave the two layers separately in the middle section of the cloth and join them only at the edges, leaving a space between the layers that forms the pocket.

Reading Double Weave Drafts

Double weave drafts look more complex than plain weave drafts because they represent two layers.

How to Interpret Double Weave Patterns

In the threading draft, each shaft sequence corresponds to either the top or bottom layer of the fabric. During treadling, each pick alternates between weaving the top layer and the bottom layer, creating the double-layered structure.

Tips for Following Complex Drafts

Colour coding the threading for each layer helps visually separate the top and bottom layers, making it easier to follow complex patterns. Additionally, using weaving software can simplify the process by allowing you to preview and plan your draft digitally before weaving.

Common Challenges and How to Troubleshoot

Uneven Tension Between Layers

Ensure that each warp path is identical and that both layers are beamed on with consistent tension. Uneven tension is a common problem, but it can usually be corrected by carefully re-tensioning the warp to balance the layers. If tension issues are present in only 1 or a handful of threads consider simply applying warp weights to fix tension.

Misalignment of Patterns

If your patterns aren’t aligning properly, first verify that your shaft lifting order is correct. Also, ensure that the picks per inch (PPI) are consistent across both layers, as variations can cause pattern distortion or misalignment.

Practical Tips for Beginners

Starting with Simple Double Weave Projects

Begin your double weave journey with small, manageable projects such as mug rugs, narrow scarves, or cushion panels. These allow you to practice techniques and build confidence before tackling larger double-width fabrics.

Swatching and Sampling for Success

Sampling allows you to observe how your chosen yarns perform in a two-layer weave. It also allows you to test joins, colour changes, and tension adjustments before starting your main project.

Inspiring Project Ideas with Double Weave

Scarves and Wraps

Create soft, warm, and reversible scarves or wraps by weaving contrasting colours or patterns on each side. Double weave techniques let you showcase two distinct designs in one beautiful, versatile piece.

Rugs and Home Textiles

Experiment with structural weaves for thick, hardwearing rugs, large double width blankets or double-layered placemats.

Expand Your Weaving Horizons with Double Weave

Double weave is a playground for creativity—offering versatility of design, the ability to weave larger fabrics on smaller looms, and endless structural possibilities. While the drafts may look intimidating at first, the technique is built on simple principles. Start with a basic two-layer weave and build your skills step by step—you'll be amazed at how quickly your confidence grows.

At Thread Collective, we love seeing weavers push their craft in new directions. Our looms, shuttles, and yarns are carefully curated for quality and sustainability, helping you create textiles that feel as good as they look. Whether you're aiming for your first double-width blanket or experimenting with reversible colour play, you'll have the tools and the know-how to make it happen. Here's to the joy of learning, experimenting, and weaving something truly your own.