Double Weaving on a Rigid Heddle Loom

A special kind of magic unfolds when you explore double weaving. As your shuttle glides through not one but two layers of warp, the fabric begins to bloom—unseen, wider, and with more dimensions than your loom would seem to allow. This is the world of double weaving, and it truly does open up exciting new possibilities for rigid heddle loom enthusiasts.

If you're already confident with the basics and eager to expand your skills, double weaving is an inspiring and empowering technique to explore. It allows you to create fabric twice as wide as your loom, weave two distinct layers simultaneously, or even form seamless structures like tubes and pockets. And yes, you can absolutely achieve this on a rigid heddle loom—with the right setup and tools from trusted makers like Ashford.

Ashford, a longstanding pillar of the weaving community, has made this technique beautifully accessible. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything from setting up your loom to weaving the hanging project pictured below. You’ll find clear steps, warm encouragement, and creative ideas to help you take the next step in your fibre arts journey.

What Is Double Weaving?

Double weaving is the technique of weaving two layers of cloth simultaneously on one loom. These layers can remain separate, like two distinct fabrics stacked on top of one another, or be joined along an edge to form a single, double-width fabric. You can also selectively join layers to create three-dimensional structures such as tubes, bags, and sleeves.

For rigid heddle weavers, double weaving opens up an extraordinary level of versatility. It allows you to create larger and more intricate pieces, introducing dimensional structure, reversible design, and expanded creative freedom.

Why Use Double Weaving on a Rigid Heddle Loom?

Rigid heddle looms are often seen as beginner-friendly, but they are also powerful tools for more advanced weaving techniques when equipped with a second heddle. Double weaving allows you to:

• Weave fabric that is twice the width of your loom
• Create layered textiles such as double-sided scarves or blankets
• Form seamless tubes and pouches directly on the loom
• Experiment with textures, structures, and colour contrast between layers

Looms like the Ashford Rigid Heddle are perfectly suited for this technique. When paired with the Ashford Second Heddle Kit, they offer the flexibility to create fabric well beyond the expected limits.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

To get started with double weaving, you'll need the following:

Core Tools:

• A rigid heddle loom that can support two heddles
• Two reeds, compatible with your loom, of the same dent size, such as Ashford RH Reeds.
• Ashford Second Heddle Kit (if your loom is an older model and not already equipped with this)
• Two shuttles
• Two pick-up sticks
• Threading hook, scissors, and warp sticks

Yarn Suggestions:

Choose natural fibres with grip and loft, such as wool or wool blends. Avoid slippery synthetics, which make it more difficult to control tension and shed structure. Using two contrasting colours will help you clearly see each layer during setup and weaving.

Choosing the Right Reed and Yarn

You will choose your reed and yarn as you would for the finish of a single layer of fabric. For example the project illustrated in this article calls for a 7.5 dent reed (x2) and a 4 ply wool such as Ashford 4 ply Superwash Merino. This combination provides enough warp spacing to manage two layers without crowding while still giving a pleasing finished fabric.

Browse Thread Collective's range of Ashford reeds to find the best fit for your project.

Setting Up for Two Layers

Install your second heddle in the provided blocks. One heddle will sit at the front, the other at the back. Warp the loom using both colours, typically threading one layer through the back heddle and the other through the front.

Letting all the back heddle threads drape over the front heddle as you work is helpful. This makes threading less fiddly and helps keep your layers organised.

Warping Techniques and Tips

You can use direct warping or indirect warping. With two heddles, it's essential to warp patiently and carefully. Thread groups of four yarns—two from each layer—into each slot, keeping colours consistent.

Manage your warp tension gently and evenly. Small inconsistencies early on can cause large issues later, particularly in the fold of a double-width project.

Preparing Your Loom for Double Weaving

Step-by-Step Guide to Double Weaving

Plain Weaving Setup

Start with both heddles in the up position and weave one row. Then, place both heddles in the down position and weave the next. This creates a firm, dense fabric with double the ends per inch. It is an excellent way to practice handling two heddles.

Tip from Ashford: Let the front heddle tilt forward slightly when switching sheds to allow smoother shuttle movement.

Creating Additional Sheds

To weave two distinct layers or incorporate special patterns like Brooks Bouquet, you’ll need more than the standard up and down sheds. Using pick-up sticks in combination with your heddles allows you to open specific sheds for each layer of fabric. This adds flexibility and control to your weaving, especially when working with two heddles.

Weaving Two Separate Layers

Thread your top layer in white and your bottom layer in moss. Follow this combination of sheds:

• Shed 1: Both heddles in rest position and pick-up stick A turned on its side. Weave one row of white. Slide pick-up stick A back.
• Shed 2: Front reed in the up position. Weave one row of white.

For the bottom layer:

• Shed 3: Both heddles at rest, pick-up stick B turned on its side. Weave one row of moss. Slide pick-up stick B back.
• Shed 4: Back reed in the down position. Weave one row of moss.

Repeat alternating layers until the fabric reaches your desired length.

(See page 6 for diagrams and step-by-step images.)

Adding Brooks Bouquet Lace

Brooks Bouquet is a decorative lace stitch that looks stunning when worked on the top layer, with the bottom layer providing a stable base.

Follow Ashford's instructions:

1. Begin by weaving four rows on the bottom layer (moss colour), followed by four rows on the top layer (white).
2. Weave four additional rows on the bottom moss layer to give your bouquet pattern a firm base.
3. With both heddles resting, bring pick-up stick A forward and turn it on its side to open the shed for the top layer.
4. Using your shuttle with white yarn, pass it underneath the first six warp threads, then loop it back over and around the final four threads in that group. Gently pull to form your first bouquet.
5. For the next group, catch the following four warp threads with the shuttle, wrap around them, and pass under the next four. This creates a distinct “bunch” that stands out beautifully.
6. Continue this wrapping pattern across the row, checking to ensure each bouquet is evenly spaced and similar in size. Adjust your grouping if needed so the full row finishes evenly.
7. At the end of the row, if you have six warp ends remaining, wrap the next four ends and pass under the last two to complete the row.
8. Return to plain weaving and work four more rows on both the bottom and top layers.
9. At this point, reconnect the two layers by weaving a row through both warps together.
10. Repeat the full sequence as many times as you like to create your desired number of bouquet rows.

Tip: Use your fingers to gently arrange and level out the “bouquets” so each one sits neatly.

Finishing Touches:Secure the upper edge of your fabric using a hemstitch or machine zigzag. For the bottom, consider starting your piece with a twisted fringe—it adds a polished finish that complements the bouquet texture. To display your work as a wall hanging, fold the top over by about 3 cm (1½ in), stitch it down to create a channel, and slide in a hanging rod or needle.

Weaving Double Width.

This is similar to weaving 2 separate layers however you will only need to work with one weft shuttle for both layers. Your fold will develop on the opposite side to which you throw your first pick. Follow this combination of sheds:

• Shed 1: Both heddles in rest position and pick-up stick A turned on its side. Weave one row. Slide pick-up stick A back.
• Shed 2: Front reed in the up position. Weave one row.

For the bottom layer:

• Shed 3: Both heddles at rest, pick-up stick B turned on its side. Weave one row. Slide pick-up stick B back.
• Shed 4: Back reed in the down position. Weave one row.

Repeat alternating layers until the fabric reaches your desired length.

Troubleshooting Common Double Weaving Issues

Even experienced weavers encounter a few hiccups when learning this technique. Here are some common challenges and how to solve them:

• Heddle misalignment: Double-check the heddle blocks and make sure both heddles are seated correctly.
• Warp tangling: Ensure warp tension is even and avoid twisting threads during setup.
• Uneven tension at the fold: This is one of the most common problems in double-width weaving. Focus on consistent warping and gently monitor your beat. Avoid pulling too hard at the fold, and check your tension regularly. Consider weighting the fold thread or adding a weighted strand of fishing line alongside the fold edge, a colour change or different weft yarn to make this point a feature or to hide any discrepancy.
• Shed confusion: Use contrasting colours to help visualise the two layers and track which shuttle belongs to each.

Mistakes are part of the learning process. Each one brings insight and helps refine your technique.

Expert Tips from Ashford

Ashford's instructions include a wealth of helpful hints:

• Allow the front heddle to hang slightly when switching sheds
• Use colour-coded layers for clarity
• Start with a small sampler before attempting a large project
• Use pick-up sticks to create stable sheds and achieve consistent layer separation

Using the inbuilt or added Ashford Second Heddle Kit ensures proper heddle support and alignment for long-term success.

Creative Project Ideas Using Double Weaving

Once you've mastered the basics, try exploring these project ideas:

• Wide table runners with a double-layered structure
• Reversible scarves in contrasting colours
• Woven pouches with no seams
• Decorative cushion covers with pockets or inserts
• Wearable art, such as ponchos or shawls made from seamless tubes

Experiment with texture, colour blending, and structure. Double weaving is a wonderful playground for creativity.

Final Thoughts: Expanding Your Weaving Horizons

Learning to double weave is more than just a new skill. It is a leap into deeper creative territory. With patience, persistence, and a bit of guidance, you can achieve impressive results and push the boundaries of what your rigid heddle loom can do.

Celebrate your growth, experiment with new ideas, and continue to explore the world of fibre arts. Visit Thread Collective to discover a full range of rigid heddle looms, reeds, accessories, and weaving tools that will support your next big project.

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Some images and text reproduced, with permission, from Ashford Wheels and Looms.