Sheep with thick wool (Photographer: Jack Seeds) When it comes to fabrics and textiles, the quality, feel, and suitability of the material are largely determined by the characteristics of the fibres from which they are made. One of the most critical attributes of protein fibres is the micron count. From the silky feel of a cashmere scarf to the warm sturdiness of a woollen overcoat, micron count plays a big role in how fabrics feel. Many people don't realise this measurement determines whether clothes may feel soft or scratchy or, for protein fibres, may even give an indication of how easily a fibre may felt. Understanding micron count helps us make better choices when it comes to clothing. This article will explore what micron count is, why it matters to both farmers and consumers and how it varies across different types of wool fibres. Join us on a journey from the sheep's back to the clothing rack, exploring how micron count shapes the fabric of our lives. What is Micron Count? Micron count is an essential measurement in the textile world, especially when it comes to assessing the quality of wool fibres. It indicates the average diameter of a single fibre, with finer fibres having lower micron counts. At Thread Collective, we offer a diverse range of spinning fibres and yarns, providing crafters with options for projects that demand fine to medium wools. This variety allows artisans to create garments, accessories, and textiles that blend luxury with functionality, showcasing the impact of micron count on the final product. In today’s wool industry, the micron count holds deep significance, representing the meticulous care in producing premium wool fibres to breed standards. Embracing this knowledge, artisans can elevate their work, crafting timeless pieces renowned for their quality and beauty. The Importance of Micron Count in Wool Quality In the textile world, people often talk about micron count, especially when talking about wool and other natural fibres. For crafters, especially within our Thread Collective community, knowing the micron count can be important for picking the perfect materials for a project, as this knowledge can enable the crafter to predict how the final product may feel and behave. Here are some of the factors that exemplify the importance of micron count: Softness and Comfort: One of the primary reasons micron count is significant is because it directly affects the softness of the fabric. Finer fibres (with lower micron counts) produce softer fabrics, which are more comfortable against the skin. This is why high-end garments, such as fine wool suits and luxury bedding, often boast low micron counts. Durability: While finer fibres are softer, they are also more delicate and less durable. Coarser fibres (with higher micron counts) are more robust and resistant to wear and tear, making them suitable for heavy-duty applications like carpets and upholstery. Insulation: The micron count also affects the insulating properties of a fabric. Finer fibres can trap more air, providing better insulation and warmth. This is why fine wool is prized for making warm, lightweight clothing. Felting: Artisans who work with yarn or fibre with the specific intent of felting find micron count very helpful as it tells them the thickness of the fibre. Medium wools (~25 microns) are excellent for beginner needle felters as they may hide the needle marks better; fine wools may be more desired by Nuno felters as they can create exquisite wispy layers and will also readily felt. Blending: Knowing the micron count allows for strategic blending of different wool types to achieve desired properties in the final product, balancing softness, strength, and other attributes. Market Value: Wool with a lower micron count is generally more valuable due to its desirable qualities, influencing its market price and demand. For example, fine fibres, like those indicated by an ~18-micron count in roving and batts, showcase a level of fineness and luxury, ensuring a softer feel, ideal for wearable items that need to be gentle on the skin. Thread Collective meticulously stocks a plethora of options, including a wide range of colours in organic merino yarns and fibres to meet the demand for fine fleeces. On the other hand, materials with a higher micron count cater to projects that benefit from a slightly coarser touch and sturdiness without sacrificing comfort. Thread Collective is committed to stocking a diverse range of high-quality fibres with varying micron counts to suit the diverse needs of fibre artists. Furthermore, our inventory also features unique fibres such as various silk types from mulberry to Tussah, each contributing their own micron counts to the collective's rich blend of materials. From the finest wools to the more robust long wools, understanding and using micron counts can improve the feel and functionality of handmade textiles. The Basics of Micron Count Wool yarns and fibre from Malabrigo Yarn Company Average Micron Count Range The term "micron" is a unit of measurement equivalent to one-millionth of a metre, and it's used to determine the diameter of a wool fibre. In wool fibres, the micron count of can vary significantly depending on the breed of sheep or other fibre-producing animals like alpacas and goats. Typically, wool fibres range from a delicate 11 microns, which is found in the finest Merino wools, to a robust 40 microns or more in coarser wool types. Here are some common average micron counts for various breeds and textiles: Ultrafine Merino: Approximately 11-15 microns Fine Merino: Approximately 18-24 microns Mid-grade wools (such as Corriedale): Approximately 25-30 microns Coarse wools (such as Scottish Blackface): Around 35-40 microns Each range has specific uses, with the finest fibres typically reserved for high-end garments that are gentle on the skin, while coarser wools are often used for durable outerwear or upholstery. How Is Micron Count Measured? The process of measuring the micron count of wool involves the use of precise scientific instruments. A common method to determine fibre diameter is the utilisation of a laser-based tool known as an Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA). This device analyses a large number of fibres from a sample and provides an average diameter reading. The accuracy of these measurements is paramount for ensuring the consistent quality and grading of wool. By accurately measuring and categorising wools based on micron counts, fibre artists and manufacturers can better predict and design the properties of their woollen textiles, ensuring they meet specific project requirements and customer preferences. This knowledge is also important for farmers so that they might adjust their breeding programs to focus on individual sheep with exemplary fleeces to further develop a flock with exceptional fleece. Factors that Affect Micron Count The micron count of wool fibres can be influenced by several factors. These include genetics, environmental conditions, age, and health of the animal. Genetics: Different breeds of sheep and other fibre-producing animals inherently produce fibres of varying diameters. Environmental conditions: Factors such as climate and nutrition can impact the quality and diameter of wool fibres. The Animal's Age and Health: Younger sheep generally produce finer wool, while the fibre tends to become coarser as the sheep age. Additionally, external factors like stress, illness, or poor nutrition can also lead to variations in fibre diameter. Understanding these factors is crucial for industry professionals. Whether teaching in a workshop or curating fibres for sale, knowledge of micron count and its influencing factors enables textile artists to select the best materials for their projects. Microns in Various Types of Wool Fibres A flock of sheep (Photographer: Sean Thoman) Exploring the world of natural fibres is an intriguing journey. Each fibre has unique qualities, colours, and textures, making choosing the right one for a project crucial. This starts with understanding fibres, their micron counts, and how they affect the final product. Mohair - A unique fibre known for its shiny appearance and strength, although its micron count of 23 to 38 tends to reside on the coarser end of the spectrum. Corriedale - A versatile fibre that has a micron count of 20 to 30, making it popular for various projects. Its balanced attributes, including moderate staple length and good felting qualities, make it suitable for many items, from clothes to decorations. It comes in many colours, offering a durable yet soft fibre. Alpaca - Exceptionally soft due to its superfine nature. Its low micron count, averaging 23 to 26.5, creates a luxurious texture that is ideal for high-end projects. Natural and hand-dyed colours enhance its appeal, ensuring creations are visually pleasing and pleasant to touch. Merino - It is celebrated for its exceptionally fine micron count, ranging from 11 to 24 microns. This softness makes it a sought-after choice for garments, accessories, and textiles where comfort and quality are paramount. The versatility of Merino wool extends to its ability to blend seamlessly with other fibres Cashmere - Known for its exquisite softness and luxury, it comes from the fine undercoat of cashmere goats and is valued for its low micron count. It must be below 19 microns to be classified as cashmere. Longwool Breeds - Breeds like the Lincoln and Romney produce wool with a coarser micron count, often exceeding 30 microns. This type of wool is strong and resilient, making it suitable for heavy-duty applications like carpets and rugs. Additionally, the Teeswater sheep breed is well-known for its long, lustrous locks, which are used in creating fringes and wefts with a micron count stable enough to maintain the shape and aesthetic desired. Down-Type Breeds - Breeds such as Wiltshire produce medium-grade wool with a micron count of 25 to 30. This wool is versatile and suitable for knitwear, blankets, and upholstery fabrics. Each type of wool, with its unique micron count, opens up a world of possibilities, offering something special for every project. Thread Collective's Average Micron Chart In our quest to provide you with the finest materials for your textile projects, we've compiled a chart showcasing the average micron counts of our wool yarns and fibres. This chart serves as a handy guide to understanding the different qualities and textures available, helping you make informed choices based on your specific needs and preferences. TYPE FIBRE COMPOSITION MICRON COUNT PRODUCTS Yarn Merino 11 to 24 microns Malabrigo Rios Malabrigo Sock Malabrigo Rasta Malabrigo Lace Ashford Merino DK Superwash Balls Ashford Merino 4 Ply Superwash Ashford Boucle Merino (Looped) Ashford Boucle Merino (Brushed) Venne Organic Merino New Zealand Wool Ashford NZ Wool 4 Ply Ashford NZ Wool DK Corriedale 20 to 30 microns Ashford NZ Wool Triple Knit Ashford DK Corriedale / Perendale Blend Mohair 23 to 38 microns Venne Mohair [Discontinued] Pure Virgin Wool 18 to 23 microns Harrisville Designs Koehler Tapestry Yarn Harrisville Designs Shetland Yarn Harrisville Designs Highland Yarn Royal Alpaca up to 12 microns Swiss Mountain Silk - Silk / Apaca Royal Fibre Merino 11 to 24 microns Malabrigo Nube Ashford Merino Sliver Malabrigo Nubecita Merino / Lyocell Blend 22 microns Ashford Merino / Lyocell Blend Corriedale 27 to 30 microns Ashford Dyed Corriedale Sliver Ashford White Natural Corriedale Sliver Ashford Light Natural Corriedale Sliver Ashford Medium Natural Corriedale Sliver Ashford Dark Natural Corriedale Sliver Ashford Corriedale Stripey Sliver Alpaca 21.5 microns Ashford White Alpaca Sliver Alpaca / Merino Blend Fine white 21.5-micron baby alpaca blended with 22-micron merino Ashford Alpaca Merino Sliver Disclaimer: Some of the numbers presented above are only estimates and may not be 100% accurate. Understanding Various Sheep Breeds and their Micron Count Sheep farming has been a cornerstone of agriculture for centuries, contributing not only to food production but also to the textile industry through their wool. The remarkable diversity of sheep breeds across the globe offers a rich tapestry of wool characteristics; each breed uniquely tailored to different climates, landscapes, and human needs. Merino sheep, renowned for their fine wool and excellent meat, are emblematic of this diversity. Their wool, prized for its exceptionally soft texture and high quality, has made them a staple in the textile industry for centuries. In contrast, the Wiltshire breed offers a softer, Down-type wool that naturally sheds, reducing the need for shearing and adding to their desirability primarily as a meat breed. A flock of sheep in the meadows (Photographer: Kiwihug) However, beyond the observable differences in wool texture lies a critical aspect that profoundly impacts its usability and value: the micron count. For example, Swiss Mountain Sheep, with their coarser 27-micron wool, may not immediately seem suitable for luxury textiles. However, when blended with finer fibres like Merino, their wool adds durability and structure, creating fabrics that offer both warmth and comfort. This blending technique not only expands the range of textures available to textile artisans but also enhances the performance and longevity of the final product. Understanding the micron count of wool from these different breeds is crucial for farmers, textile artists, and those in the wool industry, as it influences the texture, quality, and eventual usage of the fibres. It enables farmers to select breeds that best suit their production goals and environmental conditions, while textile artisans can make informed choices about which fibres to use for specific projects. Additionally, consumers can appreciate the nuanced qualities of different wool types, whether it be the luxurious softness of Merino or the robust durability of coarser fibres. Micron Counts Matter! Understanding the micron count of fibres is essential for anyone involved in the textile industry or for consumers looking to make informed choices about their clothing and home textiles. The micron count affects not only the feel and comfort of the fabric but also its durability and suitability for different applications. Whether you're selecting a fine wool suit, luxurious silk bedding, or durable cotton garments, the micron count is a key factor that defines the quality and performance of the fibre. By appreciating the nuances of micron count, you can better understand why some fabrics feel softer, last longer, and provide better insulation than others, allowing you to make more informed and satisfying choices in your textile-making projects. Browse our wool yarn and wool fibre collections at Thread Collective for your next textile project!